Some Portlanders learned to bake during the pandemic. Colin Yoshimoto made ramen.
The chef, then at Eem, though also known for his work at Poke Mon, had tried his hand at making ramen noodles from before, but those earlier experiments turned out “terrible,” he said. But with Oregon restaurants facing a second state-enforced closure in 2020, Yoshimoto suddenly had some unexpected time on his hands.
“Everyone’s making sourdough,” Yoshimoto thought. “I’m going to make noodles,’”
Soon, Yoshimoto was making more noodles than he could possibly eat. Rather than throw them away, he started selling small batches of ramen on a pay-what-you-will basis.
I was lucky enough to try a couple of those trials — bought over Venmo, delivered by scooter — during the long, dark days of early 2021. After boiling the noodles, zapping the chashu and arranging each bowl while my kids hovered impatiently, I came away more excited about Portland ramen than I had been in years. A shoyu variation made my list of the best things I ate that year.
Early next spring, Yoshimoto plans to open Toya, a ramen restaurant and bar in the former Danwei Canting space at the corner of Southeast Stark Street and Sandy Boulevard. Plans call for around four different dry and soup ramen options, otsumami (Japanese snacks), summertime poke bowls, “izakaya vibes” and a full bar.
Given the level of craft seen in those early bowls, I assumed if Yoshimoto ever opened a ramen shop it would be some refined, exclusive affair where prices started at $20 a bowl.
That won’t be the case, Yoshimoto said. Toya will welcome solo diners who want to come in, slurp a bowl with some dumplings and leave. But the restaurant will also welcome those looking for some small bites, cocktails or sake for date night.
“In America it’s difficult to do the style of ramen shop you see in Japan, where it’s in-and-out, fast casual. In America it has to be more of a restaurant experience,” Yoshimoto said. “It goes against what ramen is, and I know that, but I think diners will appreciate this concept.”
Once dinner service is up and running, Yoshimoto hopes to roll out a more traditional ramen experience at lunch. Or, in his words, “bowl, karaage, beer, crush it.”
In a region where milky tonkotsu broth rules, Yoshimoto hopes Toya — named for his maternal grandfather — will “push the agenda” for chintan soups, aka clear broths, here made from old stewing hen bones, gelatin-rich chicken feet and dashi.
“In Tokyo, shoyu ramen is king, it’s all clear soup-based, and it’s amazing,” Yoshimoto said. “I think it’s just been poorly executed for a long time in our country. And people who try one aren’t going to say, ‘Oh, this shio ramen was bad.’ They’re going to be like, ‘I don’t like shio ramen.’”
A chicken-based paitan (literally “white soup”) ramen will also be available.
Yoshimoto’s partner on the project is Kevin Trinh, a Bamboo Sushi vet who until recently served as an on-demand chef for former Trail Blazers star (and noted sushi fan) Damian Lillard. Luke Brown (Langbaan, Phuket Cafe) is putting together a beverage program “inspired by the flavors and culinary traditions of Japan and the Pacific Northwest.” There will be highballs.
Yoshimoto hopes to open Toya Ramen & Bar by March in the former Danwei Canting space just across from the Slammer Tavern at 811 S.E. Stark St.
— Michael Russell; mrussell@oregonian.com
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